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如何吹出至IN殿堂级发型

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偷技后台  吹出08至潮发

  每年的国际时装周,世界上最顶级的发型大师都会云集后台,为模特一手打造未来一季的至潮发。白热化的流水线作业需要他们必须拥有无与伦比的吹风造型技巧,快速、简单而且效果出众。偷技2008春夏时装周后台,你会发现,吹出至IN殿堂级发型其实并不难。

  潮流点1 无分缝蓬乱短发

  2008年,短发仍然被看好,只不过无分缝的随意感更突出,而且发丝间通透空气感更强。吹风造型的重点要放在刘海儿处。

  变换刘海方向侧吹风

  后台吹风妙法

  1.用手拨乱头顶发,风筒稍远距离从下往上吹风:注意,这位发型师对短发模特头顶的头发处理手法是很随意的,但有设计感:用“龙爪手”的姿态在拨乱头发的同时向上提拉发根,随意揉搓,从下往上吹风,就会打造出整体的空气感。

  2. 一定要忽略刘海儿分界线:很多人在吹风时,会很习惯地按照刘海儿的分界线来吹,百十年不变,或者一拿起吹风机就习惯把头发从发根往后吹,以为这样头发就会蓬松。不知你是否注意,小S的刘海儿的方向其实是经常换的,因为如果刘海儿朝一个方向一直吹,头发会有一边有一点塌,往后吹呢,头顶发流更容易一分为二。所以吹时不要在意分界线,从两侧斜向上吹,会让发根更蓬松。

  潮流点2 真发偏按假发做,并带点戏谑

  2006年的伦敦时装周,很多model戴假发登台,转到明年,最潮的发型就是像假发的真发。吹风要配合电夹板做出头发的纤维感。

  喷雾加弱风 吹出假发质感

  后台吹风妙法

  1.吹时要用保湿护发类喷雾打底:模特在做造型前,发型师会使用一些喷雾类产品将头发调整成最佳状态,之后沿着发流手抓吹风,让头发毛鳞片顺利闭合,头发平滑度就会显著提升。

  2.吹8成干再用夹板,才有假发光泽感:想要吹出明年至IN假发感,光泽度在首位,所以头发吹成8成干,才能保持水分和莹润感,再用陶瓷夹板做局部拉直或做卷,打造纤维质感。最好要用带负离子的恒温护发电吹风,可减少毛躁和静电,头发也有光泽。

  3.生手配散风器,发尾处做停留:发尾的整齐不毛躁也是打造假发的重点之一,发型师手里这个配着散风器的吹风机最适合技术不熟练的人,热风均匀散出,受热面更广,头发也不容易受伤,另外吹到发尾时,移开风口后,不要立即松掉梳子或撤掉手,停几秒钟后再吹别处,这样可以保持持久些。

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