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打薄剪刀的小常识

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打薄剪刀在华文的用法上亦称之为牙剪或齿剪,顾名思义它长的像牙齿状。之前在剪发的领域占有一席重要地位,现在因剪发技术的进化,部分打薄削剪技术已被剪刀所取代,但是在基础裁剪或男子理发技术上,仍属重要的生财工具。

在剪刀市场上您可以看到琳琅满目的各式各样打薄剪刀,在数十年的业界剪发教学经验中,发现真正理解各种打薄剪刀正确用途的美发设计师并不是很多。以下简单与大家分享打薄剪刀的小常识。

选购打薄剪刀要记住一个原则『齿越多的打薄剪刀,去掉的发量经常是越少。』去掉的发量的多寡是与齿上的沟漕深浅,以及齿上的面积宽幅大小有着密不可分的关系。一般情况在沟漕的深浅与齿上面积大宽幅小不变的因素下,齿越多才会量打得越多,因此我们常常会说:『打薄剪刀上的齿多寡与打薄量有一点点关系,但没有绝对的关系。』

常见的打薄刀如下:
正刃打薄剪刀→外翘外翻效果
逆刃打薄剪刀→内弯包覆效果
双面齿打薄剪刀→质感调整用去量少
齿细间隔大打薄剪刀→发根打薄用
14宽齿逆刃打薄剪刀→推剪用或当剪刀用
打薄弯刀→内侧打薄轮廓调整用

现代标准的正刃打薄剪刀,有30齿与35齿或40齿的设计,去量设计是干发去量20%~25%,湿发去量25%~30%。齿上无沟漕的标准打薄剪刀,通常去掉的量都在10%以下,且不会咬头发,适合最后修饰发尾质感用。如果拿来当作一般打薄剪刀用,保证您会剪到手酸。
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